Leaks in pipes, radiators, and joints are a rare occurrence. Usually the average owner of a private house or apartment is not ready for such an emergency. The result - flooding of neighbors from below, damage to property, costly repair of 2-3 rooms. We will try to protect you from these troubles - we will analyze several ways how to quickly stop a leak in a heating system or water supply system, then eliminate the defect completely.
Flowing pipe - what to do in the first stage
In the event of a fistula in the riser of the central heat supply, from where the water spurts, we offer the optimal action plan:
- Organize the flow of coolant into a bucket or basin, quickly wrapping the pipe with any rags. So you save flooring, personal belongings and furniture, prevent flooding. Be careful - in winter, the temperature of the network water reaches 90 ° C.
- Spend 2-3 minutes on a call to the dispatcher of the heat supply organization. Report the accident, call the plumbers.
- While the repairmen are getting there, try to block the riser yourself. Too hot coolant will still not allow to close the fistula under pressure.
- Cranes need to be searched in the basement thermal point, which is under the porch. Track where the riser penetrates the ceiling and close the nearest valve. In extreme cases, turn off the main house crane for the duration of the repair.
Tip. If prior to the arrival of the plumbers it was not possible to tie the riser with a rag and stop the flow of coolant, throw an old blanket or a thick coat on the pipe that absorbs water well.
In the current reality, masters often have to wait 2-3 days (the reasons are holidays, weekends, accidents at other facilities). It is impossible to leave residents without heat for a long time, so if there is a delay, make an impromptu collar from improvised materials:
- Find a rubber glove, a bicycle camera, or a ready-made medical harness. The second component of success is a soft steel wire with a diameter of 2-4 mm.
- From a glove (bicycle camera), cut a strip 4–5 cm wide, as shown in the photo.
- Putting the end of the strip to the pipe 1 cm below the fistula, wind up with a stretch. The goal is to close the hole tightly with several layers of rubber.
- Holding the “bandage” with your hand, fix it with wire. It is better to wind the last one tightly, turn to turn, helping with pliers. Now the common valve in the basement can be opened.
Note. On the water supply, the described procedure is performed under pressure if it is not possible to cut off the riser from the main line. It is not necessary to wind many turns of wire, the main thing is to temporarily stop the flow.
Also use the above procedure when a cast-iron central heating battery flows strongly and there are no shut-off valves. Typically, radiators leak at the joints between sections, and there should be a temporary clamp.
In a private home, the elimination of leaks is greatly simplified - it is enough to shut off the desired valve or quickly empty the heating network section. It is not necessary to wind the rubber; it is better to seal the hole with a more reliable method. When the leak in the apartment is temporarily fixed, you can’t wait for the locksmiths - select the appropriate time and completely fill the hole with any of the methods presented below.
How to close up a fistula - folk methods
There are several proven ways to eliminate radiator or heating pipe leaks using home remedies:
- use of magnet and self-tapping screw;
- applying a salt or epoxy “compress”;
- adding mustard powder;
- manufacture of home-made heat-resistant sealant.
Please note: we do not mention the most common option - a bolt clamp. This tool is familiar even to housewives, but with the advent of plastic pipes it is not always applicable. The bottom line is simple: a strip of thin metal is cut along the circumference of the riser, holes are drilled at the ends. The fistula is sealed with a rubber gasket tightened by the band bolts.
Also, do not reinvent the wheel when a leaking heating battery is connected in the correct way - with a bypass, a ball valve and a balancing valve. Close the valves, calmly remove the heater and eliminate the leak. If the radiator is connected directly, without shutoff valves, select the appropriate local repair method.
Magnet and screw
Together with the coolant, metal particles travel along communications, especially in steel pipe systems. If there is a small crack or a connection has flowed, these particles can be used as a sealant. Without draining the water, a small magnet is applied to the pipeline, attracting the metal to the defect point. Practice shows that after 1-2 days the leak is delayed.
Recommendation. The method works well on aluminum and bimetallic radiators, only the magnet needs to be wound. For large damage and plastic pipes, the method is not suitable.
The version with a screw is implemented simply: a self-tapping screw of the desired diameter is selected and screwed into the hole. The method helps in such cases:
- with point defects 1.5–5 mm in size;
- on pipes made of copper, polypropylene (PPR) and cross-linked polyethylene;
- on bimetallic and aluminum radiators.
Note. Damaged metal-plastic pipelines are prone to delamination, so a self-tapping screw plug will not help.
For fidelity, the screw in screw can be coated with automotive silicone sealant or epoxy. If the hole in the pipe is quite large, instead of a self-tapping screw, hammer in a wooden peg, pointed under a cone. Cut off the top of the plug flush with the surface and apply a regular clamp.
Salt dressing
The essence of the technique is to create conditions for artificial corrosion of metal. Therefore, we recommend using this method on older steel pipe systems that are planned to be replaced in the near future. The size of the hole or crack is 1-2 mm.
How to seal a leak:
- Wet a medical bandage and make 1-2 turns around the pipeline at the point of leakage.
- After pouring the bandage with sodium chloride, continue wrapping. A total of 20-40 layers will be required.
- Wait 2-3 hours and start heating. At first, leakage of the coolant is possible, but after a day the leak will completely tighten.
Clarification. Before winding, the steel pipe does not need to be peeled. If necessary, work is carried out under pressure, if temperature allows.
Salt is not suitable for sealing polyethylene and polypropylene pipes. Home masters advise on the Internet to impregnate the bandage with the following compounds:
- liquid glass;
- automotive high temperature sealant;
- epoxy adhesive.
We do not share the point of view of these craftsmen, since the listed substances do not have good adhesion to plastic. It will require special chemical compositions, discussed below.
Homemade sealing compounds
Repeatedly tested sealant for heating pipes - dry mustard. Being mixed with a coolant, it perfectly captures small-sized leaks that occur in highways, pipe fittings, batteries and even boilers. The application technology looks like this:
- Buy 100-200 grams of mustard powder. The amount depends on the volume of water in the heating network.
- In an open type system, fill the mustard through the expansion tank. Set the boiler to 60–70 degrees.
- With a closed circuit, the powder must be mixed with water and pumped through the feed tap.
Mustard fine fraction is characterized by high hygroscopicity (ability to absorb moisture). Once in the water, the microparticles swell, acquire an irregular shape and cling to internal irregularities, covering all the leaks from the inside. Including - at the joints and in inaccessible places.
An important nuance. It is unacceptable to add mustard to the non-freezing coolant - ethylene glycol or propylene glycol.
Mustard powder is harmless to boilers and does not cause corrosion. To eliminate leaks in batteries or heat exchangers, the dose will have to be increased. Sealing takes from several hours to 2 days.
Sometimes, for the external sealing of heating or plumbing water lines, a mixture of cement (alabaster) with PVA glue is used without adding water. The components are mixed until a thick substance is obtained and quickly applied to the damage using the same bandage. Before eliminating the leak of the radiator or pipes with an improvised sealant, wipe the surface dry, it is better to remove rust and paint.
Mechanical leak repair
If you want to reliably repair the system and forget about the problem for a long time, you will have to spend money. Moreover, the list of used funds is expanding significantly (the price of the product is indicated in brackets):
- clamping clamp for car cooling pipes (0.4 c.u.);
- pipe bolt for 4 bolts (0.7 ... 10 cu, depending on the material and workmanship);
- self-vulcanizing tape (2.5 c.u.);
- saddle clamp used for tapping, plus a plug (2 ... 10 cu);
- ROTHENBERGER brand reusable Kibosh hose clamp for emergency leak elimination (20 euros).
In addition to these devices, to restore the tightness of the plastic lines are used "native" fittings - couplings. The branch of the system is emptied, the pipe at the leakage site is cut, then the ends are joined with the help of a sleeve.
An important point. If a breakthrough of metal-plastic occurred inside the screed, a press connector (under pincers) must be placed, the compression sleeve cannot be monitored.
Another simplest steel connector is a diameter-reinforced hose. The latter is mounted instead of the cut out rotten section of the water supply. Mounting method - long or wire clamps.
Now let’s explain the technology of using mechanical sealing means in turn:
- An automobile metal clamp is laid on top of a rubber seal (made from a bicycle's chamber or a car). The option is cheap and durable, cons - unattractive appearance and use only on metal pipes.
- The finished bandage is pulled together by 4 bolts, placed on the highway of metal and polypropylene. In operation, it is much more reliable and looks better, but not applicable at junctions and turns.
- Self-vulcanizing tape adheres to a cleaned and degreased surface, including a flat one. Suitable for sealing radiators and various pipelines, faucets, connections. The disadvantage is the lack of open sale, the material is ordered through the online store.
- The saddle clamp is installed on the highway from any material except metal plastic. It is not necessary to overlap the riser of the apartment or to drain the coolant from the autonomous system. The element is compressed by bolts, a plug is screwed into the outlet pipe.
- The reusable plastic clamp snaps onto the pipe manually for 2 seconds. A very convenient device for eliminating accidents, but too expensive.
As you can see, only vulcanizing tape is suitable for all types of damage. The rest of the clamps and bandages are mounted on straight pipe sections, the battery cannot be sealed, but the joint or branch will not work. But for this purpose, there are various chemicals.
Using special sealants
Unlike mechanical means, the use of sealing compounds does not give a 100% guarantee of eliminating leaks.On the other hand, clamps and tape cannot be used on the flat surface of the radiator when the fistula is directly on the front panel. There are 3 options left: try a chemical, make a hole, or replace the battery.
Undoubtedly, sealant for pipes and radiators is the most convenient tool for the average user. Before you throw the heater into a landfill, you can try to glue it. What sealants are commonly used in such situations:
- two-component plastic composition called "cold welding";
- liquid products added to the coolant;
- adhesive heat-resistant plastic, hardening after ultraviolet radiation.
Reference. Quality cold welding by Loctite costs about 27 y. e., 1 liter of liquid sealant "Aquastop" - 72 at. e., light-curing plastic Bondic - 32 at. per set.
A two-component waterproof adhesive will definitely help if you strictly adhere to the technology - dry, clean and degrease the defective area before applying the patch. Test cold welding on the water pipe, see below in the video.
Liquid sealants are offered for different coolants (water, antifreeze) and types of heating systems. After the addition of the agent, chemical compounds fill the fistula from the inside for 2 days. Of course, large defects and through holes cannot be repaired; you must first apply the mechanical method. For example, hammer a wooden chop into the hole.
Note. The Aquastop liquid is mixed with the heat carrier in a ratio of 1: 100. That is, no more than 0.5 liters of funds will be spent on sealing the closed system of a one-story house.
Gel - Bondic plastic is sold complete with an irradiator and is applied to damage in small portions. Each subsequent drop is illuminated with ultraviolet light and instantly solidifies. An indispensable condition is a dry fat-free surface, the type of pipe material does not play a role.
Instead of a conclusion - how to detect a leak
When the lines of the radiator network are laid in an open way, it will not be difficult to identify a leak. Even slow seepage leaves traces - dark wet spots, streaks, dirty stains. Another question is to find a pipe leak monopolized in the floor or wall. Due to constant heating, moisture evaporates and a small defect is simply invisible.
An important point. A sure sign of a leak is a pressure drop in a closed heating system. Having noticed a decrease in the pressure gauge, check the operability of the expansion tank membrane, then look for the place of damage.
Ways to find a leak inside a cement screed:
- Alternate opening of heating circuits. Technology: with the pump and boiler running, shut off all the hinges of the underfloor heating except one, and watch the pressure gauge. If the pressure starts to decrease, this circuit flows.
- Remove the flooring in a suspicious area (this operation is inevitable in any case). Turn off the boiler, leaving the pump running, if necessary, increase the pressure to 1.5 Bar. Water at the leak will stop evaporating, after a while a wet spot will appear.
- A quick and technologically advanced detection method is the addition of a colored liquid to the coolant - a marker. The defect appears in the dark - the flowing water glows even through the tile.
Tip. To be sure, apply toilet paper to the dark spot on the surface of the concrete monolith. Able to absorb moisture well, it will confirm or refute your guesses.
The most convenient option is to get a thermal imager, for example, to rent. The device will help to accurately identify the problem inside the screed and eliminate it with the least loss. Look at the video about the difficulties and methods for detecting leaks inside walls and floors.